In the Labart Garden hidden in the market in Morocco, in the memories and desires of the locals, I saw a real Morocco

In the Labart Garden hidden in the market, I saw Morocco in the memories and desires of the Phos.

This article is published in “Sanlian Life Weekly”, No. 31 of 2019, the original title “The invisible garden and the maze: between Labart and Fice”

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

Text/Pu Shi Photography/Zhang Lei

Find Old Town, the old city of the cafe on a rooftop

Garden deep in the old town

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

What is true? You depict the water’s face, or the face of light.

What is beauty? In a form, you will find mystery after it, and sometimes you will find God.

—— [Syria] Atanis

There are many prestigious gardens in Morocco. For example, Malacaham is a French designer Ive St. Loron’s Mario Garden, where tourists have visited in endless visits all year round. But the garden that made me deeply fascinated and unforgettable was an unknown garden hiding deep in the district of the residential area of ​​Labat. The encounter with it was purely accidental, but it accidentally opened a dream entrance for my journey of Morocco.

I vaguely remembered that when I arrived in Labart from Casablanca to Labat, I still felt happy because of my travelers. In my heart, I even forgot to put a passport and cash on a taxi to the Uda Castle. The driver shouted in Arabic behind the door when he closed the door, and tweeted the horn until I returned to God to get the lost object on the back seat. Thanks to grateful, the haze in my heart suddenly opened a gap, and a warm light was shot between the gaps: Before the body moved, everyone who had come to Morocco told me, be careful of the ubiquitous deception and trap here. Unlike the simple and simple folk customs recorded by the Moroccan explorers and travelers for a century, the modern tourist stories I heard are full of anxiety in the strange jungle danger.

Guard in front of the Labat Palace

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

A surrounding Uda Castle is a residential residential area. I still clearly remember that the first cup of orange juice bought in front of the fruit stalls in front of a row of groceries, the warmth of the first glass of orange juice in front of a row of groceries, it evoked the warmth lost in the past text records. The silent little boss opened his white plastic box that stored ice cubes, picked out 5 oranges from it, cut it into 10 copies with a pair of knife, and then buckled the hemisphere orange on the image button. Generally, pressing on the protruding mechanical juicer, press it hard. The orange juice was slowly squeezed out and flowed into the cup until the remaining empty sac with dried pulp. He repeated 10 times, handed me a cup of fruit juice with 5 oranges, and asked me 10 Diram, about 8 yuan. His honesty and non -deception brought me a sense of security. The orange liquid slipped into my body along my lips, throats, and esophagus. I thought the person who sells juice in this alley for many years has been motionless and peaceful, and the fruit farmers who sent him a box of oranges to him for many years are for many years. The smooth harvest of the same is just like the fruit trees that mature, do not increase, or reduce the amount in his orchards, quietly start, and endlessly. My tight nerves were relaxed.

Opposite the street, a cat mother -in -law was licking the blood on her newborn child. Newborns with fists lying in a pool of blood, closed their eyes tightly, and there was an unprepared umbilical cord on the bare body. Before, it was born in the corner of this ancient city. I stepped on the cobblestone trail, upper steps, down the steps, crossed the narrow streets, crossed into a bright blue and white house, and crossed the pink chip, purple triangle plum, and Clein blue flower pots that crossed the door of the door. , Cross the sweet bread, the flavor of the Royal spices, the flavor of the Romol spice, the olive flavor of the aroma on the pizza hot noodle cake, the spam flavor of the corner of a certain street, and enter this. The ancient living area built in the 11th century: The man wearing slippers walked with a large plate of barbecue fish with a large plate of grilled silver fish (if you sprinkled a little lemon juice); one would be more delicious); The little boy licked the colorful ice cream and was walking home; the grandmother who covered the headscarf gave her grandson to the tooth to teeth, and washed her hands under the fingers in front of the door. ; Holding a few plastic bags, the man who walked lazily, maybe his life is difficult; the child who picks up the two backbags to go home to eat lunch, the glasses lenses are her intellectual eyes; Wearing a child who had just released the big cake, while being hotly shook his hands, he still couldn’t help holding the corner of the cake to tear; Crying girl; cats with chicks dyed in their hands -chick heads that sometimes appear on the ground are its execution scenes; the small road and blue and white lime walls in front of the door are arranged into the neighbors of the gorgeous garden with color flowing; A small stool on the corner of the street is caught in an old man.

There are many cats living in the garden in the old town of Labat

Then, I walked through the long stone steps with colorful wool carpets on both sides of the wall. After a handmade craft shop under the shade of towering coconut trees, I came to the old -fashioned yellow brick wall with wind and frost. When I passed through the corridor between two arched doors, I was not prepared for what was about to welcome me until I across the boundary of the threshold, “fluttering” fell into a mysterious silence: Lagerstroemia tree tree and The palm trees explored the guests on both sides of a cobblestone trail to meet their kingdoms, send them into the dense shrub, and then guided by the cypress trees wrapped around the sky. gallery. At the end of the corridor, the sawnoral wall stacks on the tower strictly guarded the kingdom, and the patron saint of the garden in the garden of the dark observation holes quietly stared and listened to everything. The cross -shaped road of the garden divides it into four pieces, each of which is high and low, with tall trees such as palm trees, cypress trees, and olive trees to support the sky above the head. Below it is the short dates such as jujube trees Joewum, a lower layer is rich in tropical shrubs that can not be named; there are dozens of flowers and fruit trees such as beauty banana, fragrant pear trees, orange trees, five -color plums, Baizi lotus, golden cup rattan flowers, and glory flowers. Rich and gorgeous. I don’t know what kind of place elf in this garden that should have should be lively, summon the quiet angels; they hide on the treetops, shrubs, and under the pebbles. I kept roaring in my mind before, whistling and coming, crowded and quarreling, and many sounds that made me difficult to peace. Suddenly they closed their mouths in this garden. The scene of the arrival attracted and tame -I heard a deep quietness in my heart.

Under the big tree, the sleeping cat, who was dozing off, raised his head and yawned, revealing a row of small tip teeth; the cats who were cold under the grape rack or strolled around the bush garden were like ghosts like ghosts. If no one is on the side; the cat standing on the edge of the pool with the tongue, raising his head to look at me, but turning his head back to his world without disturbing; the girl who reads Arabic poetry on the stone step under the Xuanli Tower In the grape vines for a long time, lovers sitting side by side like sculpture, old town men who have not returned in the contemplation for a long time … What brings me such a quiet feeling, such as walking into a dream, what I see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see, what you see. Although everything is so vivid, it is covered with a layer of fog and hazy? Maybe it is the simplicity and wind and frost of the Turk Run City Wall, maybe it is the introvert formed by its closed four -sided closure, or maybe it is hidden in the depths of the downtown, maybe it is the rich vitality of the tropical tree and the richness of the wild and wild. The natural posture may be the complicated and hollow windows in the garden, maybe the jagged wall stacks on the city walls and the fortress collecting medieval war in its form, and the awareness of violence for several centuries guarding the peaceful garden here. Perhaps the laziness of a nap cat is fascinating, maybe it is the fine flower robe of the Moroccan women covering her body.

Marlakesh belongs to the French designer Ive Saint Roland Mario Garden

Fairy Ball in the Mario Garden

But I think, the boundary that stepped into another world into another world was created by the feeling of light and color: the bright blue and white lime wall of the old city district constituted a light theater, reflecting the sunlight more brightly, no, no, no, no It is not a playful noise for the main character; while the Tukan city wall absorbs the sun, the shade obscure and decomposes the sun, which makes it calm here. color. If there is a cheerful round dance music outside the arch, this is a narrative. In many paintings and photos describing the Moroccan windows or arch, people always look out of the window or the bright part of the dark part of the room or outside the door -the same is true in the photos I took. However, if you travel through the old city of Labat like me, and then break into the secret garden of this residential area, you will know that we actually walk into the dark place from the bright place and immerse them into a dream.

The lotus ponds and Oriental gazebo in the Mario Garden

This garden reminds me of some Persian gardens visited in Isfaham. They have similar structures, as well as the spiritual temperament that is also contemplative and beyond the dust. In fact, Morocco did not create its own gardening art, but absorbed Islamic gardening ideas from Egypt, Persia and India in the long history. Islamic gardens are unified objects of heaven and earth. They are “endangered spring”, “long tree shade” and “intersection of the rivers” described in the Qur’an. I don’t need to understand the religious symbolic meaning of plants, flowers, fruits and spring water in this garden. At this time, it is enough to appreciate its beauty -beauty is a communication experience beyond religion.

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

However, the Islamic Garden is not always peaceful and peaceful. Once, I experienced a thrilling assembly in the garden of the Danjir Castle Museum. When I walked into the garden in the wall, hundreds of seagulls took off from the fortress and the city walls, hovering on the top of my head, covering the entire sky. The magnificent collective shouting, as if preparing for a expedition.

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

The wall outside Roman’s Roman era

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

Roman’s Roman ruins

“Uterine -like maze”

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

Hidden in the tens of thousands of fans and almost the same door is tens of thousands of completely different scenes. As there are many invisible maze, they are very different.

There is a city in the wall of the yellow city, such as a blue dream of a thousand years. The oldest college in the world in its hinterland was originally a city built for research and communication. The city is divided into more than 180 areas, and more than 360 mosques are preserved. The slate roads are densely packed with vascular stretch, which connects the entire city. These trails can’t see the direction, and they always seem to have reached the end of the alley to show its continuity. They can force to the point of the front line, and the sense of oppression between them can get some tuning agents under the light without any yin. Some roads have been disrepairing for a long time, and the flying dust is passing through the sun like a long time, and it is hazy. The city walls have fallen off, exposing the sloppy clay particles under the paint. It has thousands of paths and tens of thousands of different doors that do not know who belongs to, but no window opens to the streets. The inner activities of the people in the wall cannot peep at all. The story of Alibaba and the forty thief must happen in a city similar to it. If the door is not marked with the number on the door, the right person cannot be found. What kind of scene is hidden in the tens of thousands of fans, almost the same door? I can’t give tens of thousands of specific answers, but I can say certain that there are tens of thousands of completely different answers.

The religious college of the old city of Fice, built by Idris II, is the oldest college in the world

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

Cats living in the old city of Fice

The oldest city in Morocco, the most important medieval cities in the Islamic world, named Fice. There is another invisible Fice, like a maze. It allows a tourist who wants to find a shop on the shop around the ancient leather manufacturing workshop to overlook the honeycomb -like cylinder workshop. Although only one wall is separated from the workshop, it is like thousands of mountains. Can never arrive. Find’s urban people’s construction continues to be invisible maze: the first person who enthusiastically pointed to the most partial shop will bring you to the rooftop, so that you will have to buy something; the second enthusiastic enthusiasm People have heard your previous story, and promise to disappoint you. He will bring you to shops closer to the highest rooftop. Similarly, when you return, you are feeling the psychological state that you feel owed. Next, start selling the products; you clearly tell the third father who takes your daughter and enthusiastically pointing. You have already been a bit twice, and you don’t want to make mistakes again. On the rooftop, you have to walk out of the store without any shopping burden. Until he proposed to take you to this city, you readily agreed, so follow him in the endless maze, and finally enter the rose perfume shop of his relatives. Essence After bypassing thousands of mountains and rivers, you finally return to the labyrinth that is nowhere to escape.

However, this is far from the full picture of Fice. There are still many invisible Fice, waiting for us to find and see. Do you know that the old blind man who walks along the corner does not need to be free to walk in this complex maze. What is Fice in his heart? Do you know that the owner of the shop in front of the shop is like weaving, and the owner of the Islamic handicraft shop. What is the shape of Fice in his heart? Have you ever seen that those Fis people sitting in the Karin Mosque and the Cemetery of the Idoris II Cemetery all day long and in the corner of the Cemetery of the Idoris II. You can also know that the Americans who are drowned in the Fist Sea and Arabs have given up the home, work and ownership of Tennessee, and resolutely come here to settle. What kind of deep emotions are in my heart?

The handmade leather tanning factory in the old city of Fice is known for its stinky tanks of honeycomb -like dyeing tanks and various spices.

I was fortunate to see the other look of Fice, and some of them were on my Phos tour guide. His name was Idris, born and grew up in the ancient city of Fice, and later moved to New Town with his parents. He said that he liked the speed of the car on the new city highway, and the old city measured time by walking; but he liked to keep back here, and he always nostalgic here, making him feel warm. I can feel that he is happy and proud to do this job. Among the many Fist travel notes I read, such as Annaas Ning’s famous diary and Ediest’s “Morocco”, those who come here above these women who come here are received by local generals. Or the invitation and asylum of friends, this built a invisible, isolated golden bell cover for their journey; and the Arab servants who appeared around them never spoke, it was the decoration and absolute silence in the background. I want to hear them talking, want to see the Fice in their hearts, better than the Fist -kaleidoscope seen by the prisms of these distinguished tourists, and also better than the light and shadow of the city’s appearance in the photo. When I told Idoris about this wish, the young man smiled and promised politely.

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

How different is Fice walking with Idris! All the cunning souls suddenly hid without a trace, and countless doubles who wanted to cheat money from strange tourists pocked the invisible hands silently and shrank back silently. Under the day of light, he took me where he went, and his neighbors, relatives and friends, all called him enthusiastically, shaking hands with him and hugging him; people in the whole city were as good as I have been familiar with me for a long time. Essence “Idris is a great guy.” Arabia who passed by, said without looking back in their secrets. What a wonderful experience! However, once the island he was sheltered, the dangerous animals lurking in the Dark Palace of the Phos immediately revealed the truth, and their prey gathered in all directions, and Zhang Luo’s overwhelmed large nets. For a while, the photographer who was walking with me took a picture 10 meters away from us, attracting business, taking photos of him, and taking the way to him, and immediately came out of the same buzzing around. Follow him. He hurriedly speeded up and chased to the range of two or three meters away from Idoris, and the ghost disappeared immediately. I stayed steadily in the Fist’s Idris’s aura, feeling Find’s magical magic.

A trustee in the old city of Fice

Following Idris, I saw the neighborhood he had lived. It was a small irregular square with a pool with simple blue blue tiles. From a certain perspective, that square is like a multi -perspective triple painting: the short tunnel on the left, a man with a sandy slippers is pouring the water used in the basin on the dry pavement surface Up; two Arab women wearing a bright skirt and a headscarf are walking across the pool in the center of the square in the middle of the square; the donkey with two barrels of water was parked in front of a grocery shop. The alley that stood was winding for a while, disappearing in the field of vision -and I was already in my heart. Essence

In this place where I stood, behind me is a four -story brick tower, only three or four floors with a few windows that are highly unacceptable. Idris told me that there was the richest big family in this block. They immigrated to Germany a few years ago. This building is now empty. Germany was also a place to study abroad when I was in an Idris when I was young. When he was in middle school, he was obsessed with astronomy, and was determined to become a great astronomer like Uruoul Berger, just like the bright era of the world’s leading world in the 12th to 14th century. What do you do. However, the young dreams fade inadvertently after all. Later, Idris moved to the new city with his parents, studied history and foreign languages, and became an old city tour guide. But I noticed that the impulse of young people was still buried in his consciousness, becoming his source of passion for the ancient Carol in college. He told me that the first word in the Gulan was “knowledge.” He read the word to me more than once, so that I could feel like him that the mysterious charm and the essence of everything in the world in the phonetic charm of this word. He stood more than once under the stacked algae wells of the college cedar and wood sculpture, or standing in the “Gulan Jing” Scripture Arabic calligraphy, or stroked the exquisite craftsmanship tiles to repeat, transform, circulate, and ring in the interlocking of each other. The Islamic geometric pattern talks about the glory of this civilization he belongs. “Idris II has established this college here, attracting all scholars in the Islamic world to Fice, studying the scriptures, and studying astronomy, arithmetic, architecture, geography and medicine.” Whenever he talks about this sentence, he talks about this sentence. In his words, he will expand the volume in a speech -like tone to make the bustling crowd around him become his listener.

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

Citizens who rest outside the wall of the old city of Fice

The Gate of Babjlod, one of which is attached to the cobalt blue tiles, and is also known as “Blue Gate”

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

He failed to become a astronomer’s regret that he was only revealed between flashing thoughts, and he suddenly disappeared. Instead, he replaced his affectionate memories of the neighborhood here. He recalled that this square was rinsed and cleaned by the neighboring neighborhood, and always maintained cleanly and brightly; when he remembered several old people who had never been willing to move away from the old town and would rather be old here, they were neighboring and right. Good care. His tone was full of pride, and his eyes flashed with the light of past friendship. His mother still retains the old house here, becoming a place where she must come back to visit neighbors, old friends and relatives like a pilgrimage every month. His mother told him that only in the old house here can she get peace.

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

Find, this maze that is full of alert traps for outsiders like me, has a completely different symbolic significance for Idris. He told me a childhood story. When he was a child, he slipped away while his mother talked with the neighborhood, and decided to explore the entire Fice world outside the family and the neighborhood. He ran happily, and finally found that he was lost. The sunset was dark, and his mother didn’t see him throughout the neighborhood, so he mobilized all neighbors. The neighbors informed their relatives and friends who lost the news of Idris and let them continue the news. In the end, everyone in the entire Fice City mobilized to find him. Soon, Idris returned to her mother. Idris told me that during the period when he found himself away from his mother and lost alone, “I was not afraid of it. I know that someone will always find me and send me home. I always feel safe in the old city until today. As long as I am here, I am like my mother’s uterus. “

Walking with Idris, I started to see a different Fice: a neighboring neighborhood that wants the bakery master to add an egg in the sweet bread, and run to another egg that sells eggs. ; Hong Kong people who specializes in the wedding of Moroccan friends will send her slightly hypertrophic cheongsam to the tailor shop to change it. Leave it to the poor neighbors and quietly handed him in a plastic bag. I started to see the Fice that Annaas Ning saw 80 years ago, and it has not changed; it is wearing the veil, it is complete, endless, intricate, complicated, and impermanent. “I walked with the Arabs to pray for the tolerance of divine songs, curled up in silence with them, and the quiet street is the streets I hope. Forget the disputes and lies behind the wall of the earth, listen to the sound of copper wares, watch the sound of copper wares, watch the campaign of copper, watch The dyeing workers soak the silk in the orange dye barrel. I lost my passion for mysterious and unknown things, and the passion for many unknown things. “

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

I still remember the funeral shop I took through me, and the groom’s carved sedan and the cooler coffin that lifted the dead was in a shop. The old man greeted me in the past and wanted to show me the wood chips of his coffin, and let me smell its aroma, as if death was never a taboo. Idris said that he always imagined that the coffin was a luxury car that accompanied him to finish his last journey and would be sent to the next life. “Do you really believe in the afterlife?” I asked. “I believe.” Idris said, “For me, this life is an experiment, in the end to go to the past. It is the imagination of the afterlife that has produced morality to restrict this life.”

在摩洛哥隐藏于市井的拉巴特花园里,在当地人的回忆和渴望中,我看到了一个真正的摩洛哥

Annaas Ning once wrote: “What we see is not what things look like, but to see ourselves in things.” I did not fully agree with her view, but perhaps, the crisis of Fist maze is reflected. It is indeed a hurry of us who have passed by. Who has tried to see, the ordinary Fice, who still flows in this millennium ancient city, still flows and the vitality is still strong? Only when I traveled through the Fis maze with peacefully with Idris, I understood that Fice is not lonely, and it is a whole of people who are closely connected. A reflection of each other -Fice is the universe.