From minimalism to mechanical Ji, how contrast is this fashion designer?

Tiery Mueller

(Thierry Mugler) 1997 spring and summer show

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Thierry Mugler was a controversial French fashion designer in the 1970s. His work style is very different, from the abstract minimalist style to exaggerated gorgeous costumes, and even the technological design of “Cyberpunk”, which comes from his handwriting. Today, fashion Bazaar Art takes you to explore the artistic connotation behind this ghost designer.

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Do you know that “Sailor Moon” is also related to Tiery Mueller. The author of this comic Wu Naizi was inspired by Mueller when creating a character image. This comic is naturally in line with “girl aesthetics”. However, in addition, Mueller’s works also have many other styles. He tried to make each one the extreme.

Left: Koan’s manuscript in Koan Naoko’s “Sailor Moon”; right: Tiery Mueller 1995 autumn and winter show

Left: Tiri Mueller 1995 Spring and Summer Show; Right: HOTARU in Naoko Naoko “Sailor Moon”

Surrealism (Surrealism)

Tiri Mueller’s work has a strange beauty. They are exaggerated and eclectic, and often have non -functional design. Hugging has always been the principle of its efforts.

Left: Tiri Mueller 1995 autumn and winter show; right: Cardi B in the 2019 Grammy Awards Ceremony

Tiery Mueller 1997 Spring and Summer Show

At the same time, the binary confrontation between the “men” and “women” to weaken and break the gender is a common means of surrealist design. Mueller once bluntly stated in the interview: “I like the mixed sex of the sexes, and the very weak and male and female man who likes me, and also a very masculine woman … I like to turn my body into a hero.”

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Male model wearing a black skirt, Tiery Mueller 1997 spring and summer show

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Gender themes often appear in surrealist painting. In the “Love” in Rene Magritte, the gender characteristics of men and women are only identified by the color of the clothes. The gender position is blurred here. The “suffocation” is the only communication between the two.

Rene Maglite “Lovers”, cloth oil painting, 73.4 × 54cm, 1928

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Mueller’s obsession with human nature is also a manifestation of its surrealist characteristics. He does not think that “desire” is vulgar. On the contrary, he is keen to express “animal instincts”. He also pursues “extreme” and believes that “clothing must be enlarged”, and this exaggerated treatment is particularly obvious in his design manuscript.

Tiery Mueller 1992 High -Dating Series Manuscripts

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

In the classic work of Salvador Dali, the classic work of Salvador Dali, the surrealist painter, “The omen of the Civil War”, put aside the metaphor of its political meaning, the visual impact of exaggerated human bones in the painting, the visual impact caused by the exaggerated human bone, the powerful muscle muscle Feeling, with Mueller’s manuscript.

Salvador Dali “The Better of the Civil War”, cloth oil painting, 100 × 99cm, 1936

In addition, wildlife is also an important element in surrealist clothing design. The images of insects and birds are classic images in Tiery Muller’s works. In the spring and summer of 1997, the release of the “insect series” was a strong stroke in Mueller’s design history. In the autumn and winter show in the same year, Mueller once again released the stunning “peacock dresses”. The peacock decorated with scales is both birds and beasts, but also an alien with thriller. And this fantasy animal image is also widely used in surrealist painting.

Tiery Mueller’s 1997 high -definition series show

Salvador Dali “The Temptation of San Anthony”, cloth oil painting, 89.7 × 119.5cm, 1946

Minimalism (minimalism)

Mueller’s design shifted from luxurious and unpretentious expression in 1992 to a minimalist. The high -end fashion series was actually a turning point of construction significance. As far as he is concerned, “minimalist” is a tool that gives him a breath as fresh as fresh air. This change is a response to the previous style rebound, which becomes more complete in a complicated and rest alternating design cycle.

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Tiery Mueller 1998 Spring and Summer Series

Minimalism is a aesthetic concept of “less is more”, and its connotation involves the philosophical concept of balance. Minimalist clothing design uses clean lines and outlines to construct the coordination relationship between clothes and the body. It does not avoid all decoration, but to simply emphasize the structure and function of the clothing as much as possible.

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Elsworth Kelly “Cowboy”, cloth oil painting, 114 × 110cm, 1958

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Although Mueller’s Gao Ding dresses are full of thoughts and dramaticism, the clothing series of the same name brand is simple and practical while taking into account the beauty. You can still find some high -definition shadows from these designs -polar trimming, deep V -neckline, round -shoulder design, etc., but these characteristics have become the body structure decoration, so it is also widely sought after.

Tiery Mueller’s garment series

Minimalism is mainly manifested in traditional art as abstract, geometric paintings and sculptures. Its composition strategy is to express the use of the minimum graphics, angle, and proportion. Minimalist painting strives to remove associations other than visual effects, and abandon the noise outside the entity to highlight the nature of visual. The claim of minimalist clothing deletion and practicality can be understood as an extension of this concept.

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Bunite Newman “Untitled No. 1”, 57 × 78cm, 1969

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Futurism (FUTURISM)

Futurism is an art genre that appeared in Italy in the early 20th century. It advocates abandoning old literary and aesthetic systems, and through previous scientific and technical experience predictions, grasping the future. Futuristic speed, strength, technology and other elements are used in fashion, movies and other cultural fields. The “Cyberpunk” style that has been popular in the past two years has evolved from it.

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Game “Pacific 2077” picture

Mueller’s design works have a very obvious futuristic tendency. The theoretical founder of this genre, Marinetti, Italian poet and art critic, has proposed the artistic proposition of “human metallization”. Whether it is Mueller’s “Golden War Armor”, or a series of “mechanical girls” works created by Kaishan Kiki, it is undoubtedly followed by this proposition.

Tiery Mueller 1995 Autumn and Winter Series

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

“Storm” is an important spiritual core in futuristic schools. These painters refuse to static right -angle, while obsessed with the rhythmic “blasting” such as spiral, sharp corners, and circles. They are emotional and have the desire to break through harmony. Looking at Mueller’s works, those “provocations” design that often appear to the eyeballs is the same as Focusing Painting School.

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Tiery Mueller, 1987

Tiery Mueller’s works

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Ivo Panner “High -speed Train”, 1922

These seemingly independent genres appear in the work of the same designer, not the absolute accident of life. They represent the collision of designers inspired by the outside world and the courage to make experimental breakthroughs. For Mueller, walking out of the strange and luxurious advanced custom world is like getting out of the “comfort circle”. This attempt may not make him a master of minimalism, but make his design process richer and full. Which style do you like Mueller best? Welcome to leave a message to share.

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Exhibit

exhibition

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Layout:

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THIERRY Mugler’s work exhibition

Time: 2021.9.30-2022.4.24

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

address:

Paris Decoration Art Museum

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

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从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

Ma Tianyi

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

This article is originally created by the Art Department of “Fashion Bazaar”.

从极简主义到机械姬,这位时装设计师的反差有多大?

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