Pure dry goods sincere routine -a high -quality leather clothing guide guide

This content comes from@What is worth buying smzdm.com ｜ Author: NEVERGONE Chen

Creative position statement:

Pure enthusiasts, share some of the knowledge about retro, click, work boots, and some things I have bought. Don’t treat me as a merchant who sells shoes and sell clothes (although I have encountered a lot …)

Regarding how to choose leather clothes, this topic is very large. If you write carefully, you should write tens of thousands of words. But considering the reading experience, I should write a simple guide first, and we will talk about the detailed content in the future.

This article mainly discusses the leather clothes in the high -quality retro clothing,

The first and second -tier designers big cards, tide cards, middle -aged and elderly leather vests, mink coats

Nothing is in this column.

Furthermore, this article only discusses the principle of purchase,

Don’t discuss why you buy

Therefore, the default you already know that the leather jacket is not practical, the comfort of the wearing is not good, the old age, etc.

Knowing that you still click in, it means that you are really love. Besides, after all, when the money is in your own hands, if you spend your own money, if you still have to listen to others to say three or four, it will be too boring.

Finally, theory is theory after all. Want to pick the leather clothes you are satisfied, me

Strongly recommend that you go to those retro physical shops to see more and try to try more

In this way, you can do it.

Let ’s start, about four parts.

Look at the design

Leather

Workmanship

Various brands recommendation

Full text 5596 words, 77 pictures, expected reading time 10 minutes

This must be ranked first because buying leather clothes

The most important thing is the aesthetics that meets your own

Otherwise, the material is hard workmanship, and it is estimated that few people will buy it. Essence Essence I list most of the leather styles I know here. You can refer to what style design you like.

Basically, the style of leather clothes can be divided into the following categories:

Locomotive

The locomotive model, as the name suggests, was originally used to ride the windshield for motorcycles, and later gradually evolved into one of the daily clothing styles.

The motorcycle model should be regarded as the most common leather style. It was born around the 1930s and the rise of motorcycles.

You can see that so many leather clothes say that you are referring to the 1930S model, but there is no specific one to say which one

Essence Essence Essence As a result, too many people take the Single Rider directly as the 1930S model,

I personally think this is wrong

Essence

Single Rider

The zipper is located in the center, very concise style. This kind of leather jacket is more suitable for daily life. Even if you do not ride a motorcycle, you can wear it with a shirt.

According to the collar style, pocket style, zipper style, sleeve zipper, etc.

It can be subdivided into more styles.

Standard collar style:

↑ Aero Leather Highwayman

↑ Freewhelers mulholland

↑ Eastman Elmc Highway Star

Stand -up style (also known as Cafe Racer):

↑ Buco J100

↑ Freewhelers Speed ​​Master

↑ SCHOTT 641

Double rider

It is also called Perfecto, string zipper leather jacket, etc., which was initially invented by Schott. The typical feature is asymmetric design and large lapels. In design, there are more complicated details than Single Rider, such as shoulder stones, belts, more pocket lids, and so on. Similarly, it can also be disclosed according to the location of the pocket, the size of the collar, the zipper style, and so on.

↑ SCHOTT PERFECTO 613

↑ Buco J24

↑ Lewis 384

In addition, there are this more special style, because the round metal on the chest is named “pig milk”, it feels that it is really only suitable for cycling. Essence

↑ Buco J31

Or to the Neptune, he can control any leather clothes at will. Essence Essence

↑ Freewhelers Center

British motorcycle leather jacket

There are many names in this type of style, including hunting clothing, as well as Field Jacket, as well as British motorcycle leather jackets (Lewis, Belstaff, and Ralph Lauren have all been available). There are several big pockets on the front, and then the long+waist design is used. I don’t know how to distinguish it, but basically it is mostly pictures of riding bicycles, so put it here first.

↑ RRL is called 1940’s Leather Field Coat Motorcycle Jacket

This category is more handsome, it is undoubtedly the Belstaff of Beckham’s upper body:

Pilot

This is a large category,

According to the collar style, hairy collar, pocket position and quantity, hem and cuffs, etc.

The difference between the above, as well as the U.S. military, the British or Germans, and less than a dozen models. Essence Here are only models that were initially used in leather materials. As for those who were carved with classical models (such as MA-1, B-1 10, etc.), they did not come in.

US

There are too many models, and most of them should be familiar with it, so just put the picture

↑ A-1 by Bill Kelso

↑ A-2 by goodwear leathers

↑ G-1 by Eastman

↑ G-2 brand is unknown

↑ B-3 by the Real McCoy’s

↑ B-6 by the Real McCoy’s

↑ B-7 by Simmons Bilt

↑ Anj-4 by Lost Worlds

↑ D-goodwear leathers

↑ M-422 by goodwear leathers

British army

R.A.F

The British-British wool leather jackets are more luxurious than those of the U.S. military earlier than those of the U.S. military, the initial version than B-3 and other materials, but later it becomes a simplified version. Various stitching can be seen on the sleeve and body.

↑ Eastman’s RAF of each age re -engraved

German

The Germans’ flying leather clothes were purchased by pilots themselves in the early days. Unlike the US military, they had a unified model. So when people are famous, they are named directly with the name of the ace pilots.

↑ Hartmann by Eastman

↑ Bark Horn Barkhorn

↑ Marseille Marseille

Recently, I saw Y’2 Leathers re -engraved one, and it looked pretty handsome:

Denim jacket model

The style that is well understood is to replace Levi’s classic Type I, II, III denim jackets with leather

↑ Type I by High Large Leathers (later renamed Fine Creek Leather)

↑ Type II by High Large Leathers

↑ Type III by High Large Leathers

Cossack/Campus

This is also a very classic style. It also originated before and after 1930s. The biggest feature is the use of green fruit collar+buttons. Regarding this style, the most interesting story is Einstein. It has a brown Caitak leather jacket made by Levi’s and wears it for a long time.

In 2016, this leather clothes were purchased by Levi’s for auction at Christie’s auction at 100W ($ 14.4W) and re -engraved. After that, the replica sold 1200 knives on the official website of Levi’s, limited to 500 pieces, and was soon in seconds. After that, there are price increases on the idle fish. It can only be said that there are some oxes in the Kaki Circle. Essence Essence

As a classic style, other brands also do:

↑ Himel Bros

↑ Mister Freedom

Leather shirt

This is also well understood. Use leather to make conventional shirt models, and posted some pictures at will

↑ Tenjin Works

↑ California little bear Rainbow Country

Other styles

Car coat

At the earliest, cars were an outdoor sports (the roof and air conditioners were all later), so it was necessary to prevent wind and cold, so car jackets were born. The characteristic is that it is relatively thick, and most of them are fixed with buttons. Car Coat is a large category, and there are many different designs, one of which is very similar to the Said members often heard by players.

Brakeman is also a very old style. Almost 100 years ago, then the freight train needed manually to assist braking and turning, so the occupation of Siza members was born, and the coat they wore was the coat of the Saizhun.

Recently, it is a CAR Coat of Kimura Dashen on RRL:

On the Internet, there is a picture of the articles worn in “Tokyo Hotel” in “Tokyo Hotel”.

Through the details in Kimura Weibo photos, I determine the RRL in the play:

The details on the back can also be confronted:

Bear jacket (Grizzly)

The characteristic is that the splicing part is over the fur, and personally I feel that it is not easy to match.

PEA Coat

As the name suggests, the style of the naval coat is made with skin, and the degree of domineering increases sharply. Essence

↑ Tenjin Works

Blazer (Blazer)

Summon Liang Chaowei

About tailoring

Finally, there is a very important point about looking at the design. In the same style, the cutting of different brands will be very different. Some narrow shoulder wide and wide bust are pursuing the effect of self -wrap, some shoulder wide -chest wear are more pursuing loose effects, some cuffs are very wide and difficult to support, some cuffs are slightly narrow to show the arm curve, and so on.

The simplest example is that some fashion models A-2 are more slim (such as Visvim), and there is no wide effect of the original A-2. The result is of course divided into two factions. Two people who like fashion and pursue the original version think that each other is SB. Essence Essence

↑ This expression is theoretically suitable for argument between any circle. Essence

In addition, one more thing is

Be sure to pay attention to the matching of your body and leather jacket

Essence Some people are obviously full, and they have to pursue self -cultivation. This not only follows the principle of “fat people’s hiding meat”, but exposes all the meat. There is also a bad figure. In the online shopping evaluation, it is often seen that someone is 165 weighing 155, and the leather bust of the buying L is enough, but he commented that “this leather sleeve is too long, spicy chicken cut! “

certainly,

It is not ruled out that someone deliberately buy a big size to pursue the loose effect

Essence Therefore, the first point is about personal taste, I don’t make any suggestions here. If you really want to give suggestions, then I can only recommend you to buy more and try to see what your own taste and preference are. This is what others cannot control.

Or, it is recommended to add money: Some brands provide customized options to report data to modify the length of the shoulder wide bust sleeves, so there is nothing that can be solved by adding money.

We all say to be ourselves, but in fact, no one can do it completely, and still likes to care about others’ opinions

Essence I used to say a word and let you go here to encourage everyone:

Different cortexes have different characteristics, such as hardness, gloss, toughness, strength, and old, etc., which will affect the comfort and the upper body effect, and need to be selected according to your own taste. Personally, the vegetable tanned cowhide horses are a good choice for raising clothes. The old effect will look better. The disadvantage is that it is relatively hard. Most people cannot accept it.

Remind here,

Even if it is the same animal, the final finished product produced by different parts and different tanned methods will have different physical properties or a large gap.

(For example, there can also be a relatively soft cowhide and horse skin), so let alone different kinds of animals. However, the overall characteristics can be simply said:

All kinds of common leather

Here are simply written, as for crocodile skin, lizard skin or whatever. Essence Essence

Sheep skin

Very soft, thin and light, and highly comfortable, often used in all types of first and second -tier design brands.

goat skin

It is a little harder and stronger than the sheepskin, but it is also lighter and the texture is obvious. The picture above shows the Indian sheepskin of Himel Bros, and it is said that this is the best goatskin.

Cowhide

The most common skin. Heavier than sheepskin, stronger toughness and strength, higher luster than sheepskin. The picture above is my own gods.

Deerkin

Similar to the enhanced version of goatskin, the toughness is relatively high, and the meat feels more. The picture above shows the deer skin of Y’2.

Horsepower

It’s brighter than cowhide and usually harder. The picture above shows the predecessor of the Newxi horse, and the picture below is my own Guidi horses:

Brand preferences and costs

For high -quality retro leather clothes, the most common is cowhide and horse skin. Moreover, different brands have different leather preferences. For example, Eastman likes to use the Italian vegetable tanned horse skin, Himel Bros, Freewhelers, The Real McCoy’s, likes to use the New Jie Hempi, Aero likes to use Hervin CXL Hempi, heaven and Sturdy like to use beylum cowhide.

Furthermore, different brands will also process different processing leather to ensure that the final effect is what the brand it wants. Even if it is the same leather produced by the same leather factory, there will be some differences in the finished products of leather clothes between different brands.

The left side of the picture above is freewhelers, the picture on the right is Himel Bros, both of which use the new Jie Mi Pi, the picture comes from chehauchiang

Finally, for the high -quality retro leather jacket that sells for 10,000 or 20,000,

In fact, the proportion of leather costs is not high

Essence Few brands will use more than 100 pieces of more than 100 yuan per feet, most of which are used in 40 ~ 80. A piece of leather coat is about 30 ~ 35 feet leather. How much is the cost of leather, you can calculate it yourself.

Essence

↑ Himel Bros

To ask why it is so expensive, it is actually very simple:

1 It is expensive abroad, and it takes a long time to make leather clothes than ordinary clothes

2 Small things are low in sales and need to maintain high pricing

3 Small channels, relying on well -known Kazhi stores to take the goods, you have to leave some profit margins for proxy

Drawing problem

Yes, you read it right, just like other leather products, there are also a lottery problem. I have wrote a loose problem on the leather shoes, please refer to it for details

https://post.smzdm.com/p/awxq4694/

In fact, the principle is almost the same, but because the leather is large, it is easier to relax. If you want to buy high -priced leather jackets and don’t want to encounter obvious loose problems, then I can only suggest that you go to a physical store. Picking a growing pattern or loosening area is in an inconspicuous place, so that it can make the visual effect more pleasing to the eye. It would be better if it can be picked to the whole, but this probability is relatively low.

but,

It is not ruled out that some people just like the feeling of pine

I have seen a lot on the Internet. Recently, Eastman has made a new pine horse skin, and some people still commented that “so poisonous” is so cloudy.

In addition, there is this loose half, and I feel that it is not as loosening:

This is relatively simple, there is not much to say. The leather clothing is essentially sutured a variety of different sizes, so the main points of concern are:

The wiring is not neat and the needle distance is uneven.

Based on equal level, whether there is alignment, etc.

Bad example:

↑ The two lines of the pocket are obviously not parallel

↑ The whole car that is very scribbled

Good example:

↑ Picture from AlmostvintageStyle

In addition, different styles will have different workmanship problems, such as the hem of A-2 and cuffs, stringing zipper-style belt, etc. It needs to be analyzed in detail. It will not be expanded here.

In fact, most of the above pictures are brands that I think are relatively high. It belongs to a brand that has a better reputation and has no obvious shortcomings at this price, so it can be said that I have finished it. Essence

Not all, if you have a good brand you think, please leave a message to add.

Below 3000:

It is relatively messy, and even if the same brand, the quality will be uneven, such as thorns, Dongshan, Simons, etc., I will not write much; more, it is estimated that after buying better Skin leather.

3000 ~ 5000:

Guofo, RISK RIDER, armed front, Haijue (Holvin), Binhai Global

5000 ~ 8000:

Aero Leathers, Schott (Perfecto Series), Mister Freedom, Fine Creek (High Large) Leathers, Lost Worlds, Buzz Rickson’s, Y’2 Leathers

8000 ~ 12000:

Eastman, God Tenjin Works, California Bear, Lainbow Country, Sturdy, BUCO, THEDI, Bill Kelso, Lewis Leathers, The Flat Head, Addict Clothes, RRL, Simmons Bilt, Four Speed, Four Speed

12000 ~ 20000:

HIMEL Bros, FreeWEELERS, Goodwear Leathers, The Real McCoy’s

Budget unlimited:

Zilli, Bijan, Hermes and so on. Essence Essence

P.S: Don’t ask me where to buy it, don’t ask me the link,

Ask is Taobao idle fish and sea Amoy, please make good use of the search function

Essence

The above is a relatively simple leather clothing guide guide, the most important of which is the design. so,

Strongly recommend that you can feel more about the real thing

Looking at various pictures on the Internet, the tutorials are actually not helpful.

In addition, it is recommended to choose a brand with good reputation if you buy. One is that the probability of problems is not high.

Finally, ask for all kinds of consecutive companies, and you can also send a variety of pits Mengxin (if someone asks you)

Essence